Today is my last full day at Germolles. There probably won't be much gardening today as our sunny day has turned to thunder and hail. Balzàn -- the younger of the two labs -- spent the morning in the kitchen with me, making flower arrangements for the various halls in the chateau. He was a perfect angel -- not his usual naughty self -- I think he knows I am leaving and he'll have one less person to steal bread from during dinner ;)
Had a wonderful visit with Niels, David, and Niels' sister (Gemia); Matthieu's friend, Dominique, is here from Paris -- as usual, there is always something going on at the chateau. I will miss it.
There will be more posts and memories when I return. Looking forward to being home again with you.
See you soon!
Amy
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Finally! Dessert!
After days and days of "La Guerre on the Square", I finally got to actually PLANT something yesterday!!! It was a day of much rejoicing for me. The "carre au fleurs" -- square of flowers -- as it is called has been a bit of a battle that I came to refer to as la guerre (war) on the square. Christian would ask how the battle was going -- truly I had a formidable enemy. Today I managed to weed most of the remaining corners -- and made another trip to Jardinland for more nice things to plant. The clerk remembered me (I had quite a haul the day before) and said, surprised, "encore?!". Oui, encore.
I feel like after gagging down lima beans and brussels sprouts for breakfast, lunch, and dinner that I finally -- finally -- got to have dessert!
Victory is sweet!
Things feel like they are wrapping up here... I'm seeing Niels and David tomorrow morning and we have dinner with some locals in the evening. Thinking about being home soon... a bientot.
I feel like after gagging down lima beans and brussels sprouts for breakfast, lunch, and dinner that I finally -- finally -- got to have dessert!
Victory is sweet!
Things feel like they are wrapping up here... I'm seeing Niels and David tomorrow morning and we have dinner with some locals in the evening. Thinking about being home soon... a bientot.
Monday, July 7, 2008
Time Warp
Being in a place where multiple centuries collide at every corner can put you in a bit of a time warp. I realized I'd completely missed the fourth of July (though I posted that day). We are a day ahead here, but most times I'm not really sure what day it is.
Pretty much everyone and everything is friendly at Germolles, from the fish in the moat, to the chickens and quail in the farm yard, to the butterfly that fanned my back the other day or the bat that came in to see my bedroom last night. It was a very polite bat, kindly asked to be let out, and then fluttered around while I opened the enoromous windows.
There is always something to do here, another reason to lose track of days. Hard to believe it has been a week already. Dinners are late here -- very late -- and it was nearly 1 am by the time I climbed the spiral staircase to my room. Christian is quite a ham -- and his "chou croute lady" is a continual source of amusement. It is easy to see why he and Matthieu love Germolles. It's the kind of place where you could be very happy -- maybe forever.
(not to worry though... I'm still coming home).
Pretty much everyone and everything is friendly at Germolles, from the fish in the moat, to the chickens and quail in the farm yard, to the butterfly that fanned my back the other day or the bat that came in to see my bedroom last night. It was a very polite bat, kindly asked to be let out, and then fluttered around while I opened the enoromous windows.
There is always something to do here, another reason to lose track of days. Hard to believe it has been a week already. Dinners are late here -- very late -- and it was nearly 1 am by the time I climbed the spiral staircase to my room. Christian is quite a ham -- and his "chou croute lady" is a continual source of amusement. It is easy to see why he and Matthieu love Germolles. It's the kind of place where you could be very happy -- maybe forever.
(not to worry though... I'm still coming home).
Friday, July 4, 2008
La vie du Chateau Germolles
It is really quite incredible to be here. I find myself in the garden glancing up at this 14th century place and I can't believe this is where I am. There is so much to tell about. I'm getting the hang of the french keyboard -- but am still a bit slow at typing -- frustrating when there is so much to write about.
I arrived on a hot Burgundy afternoon -- the kind that had me wondering why I bothered to pack long pants, banana sweats (yes, I brought them) and my waterproof jacket. I was glad I did as we had a storm the other day where the sky turns black and the wind whips around in a way that makes all the birds and bugs nervous. It reminded me of the storm in "Under the Tuscan Sun" where Frances finds an owl in her bedroom. Apparently, that had happened before in my room, so I half expected one. Mother Nature put on quite a show with great cracks of lightning and a torrent of rain that lasted most of the next day. With the rain pouring in buckets, gardening was a bit of a challenge -- though this Oregon girl made a valiant effort. Finally I resigned myself to some cooking -- I made some jam with rhubarb from the garden and a gallete of peaches, raspberries (or RAPSberries, as Christian calls them) and apricots.
The kitchen -- which is a mix of every century from the 12th to the 20th -- is one of my favorite places. The pantry next door smells of wonderful stinky cheese -- sometimes I go in there just to smell it. While the rain isn't ideal, being inside wasn't awful.
This morning Matthieu had a tour in English, so I went along. The history of the chateau is fascinating -- and there is something to discover around every corner. My bedroom is on the first floor (actually the second according to American architecture). This was the floor where the nobility largely slept/lived so I've got one of the best rooms in the house! Though the bedroom where I sleep was redecorated/changed to a more Parisian style, underneath there are the original paintings of Marguerite and Phillipe's initials. It is believed that the Duke Phillipe the Bold gave Marguerite of Flanders Germolles as a gift -- and her influence is everywhere. I'll write more of that later.
Today was beautiful weather for gardening and I spent most of the day in the carre du fleurs -- the wild garden behind the Orangerie (greenhouse). I am taking some before and after pictures -- hopefully the "after" will meet with Marguerite's approval. :)
All for now -- all is well.
I arrived on a hot Burgundy afternoon -- the kind that had me wondering why I bothered to pack long pants, banana sweats (yes, I brought them) and my waterproof jacket. I was glad I did as we had a storm the other day where the sky turns black and the wind whips around in a way that makes all the birds and bugs nervous. It reminded me of the storm in "Under the Tuscan Sun" where Frances finds an owl in her bedroom. Apparently, that had happened before in my room, so I half expected one. Mother Nature put on quite a show with great cracks of lightning and a torrent of rain that lasted most of the next day. With the rain pouring in buckets, gardening was a bit of a challenge -- though this Oregon girl made a valiant effort. Finally I resigned myself to some cooking -- I made some jam with rhubarb from the garden and a gallete of peaches, raspberries (or RAPSberries, as Christian calls them) and apricots.
The kitchen -- which is a mix of every century from the 12th to the 20th -- is one of my favorite places. The pantry next door smells of wonderful stinky cheese -- sometimes I go in there just to smell it. While the rain isn't ideal, being inside wasn't awful.
This morning Matthieu had a tour in English, so I went along. The history of the chateau is fascinating -- and there is something to discover around every corner. My bedroom is on the first floor (actually the second according to American architecture). This was the floor where the nobility largely slept/lived so I've got one of the best rooms in the house! Though the bedroom where I sleep was redecorated/changed to a more Parisian style, underneath there are the original paintings of Marguerite and Phillipe's initials. It is believed that the Duke Phillipe the Bold gave Marguerite of Flanders Germolles as a gift -- and her influence is everywhere. I'll write more of that later.
Today was beautiful weather for gardening and I spent most of the day in the carre du fleurs -- the wild garden behind the Orangerie (greenhouse). I am taking some before and after pictures -- hopefully the "after" will meet with Marguerite's approval. :)
All for now -- all is well.
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Exotic Alaska
This travel gal headed to Alaska for her summer vacation and what a trip it was! I have always wanted to sea kayak so when Kendra asked me if I wanted to go, it was kind of a no-brainer. Originally I was picturing the Puget Sound... orcas, birds, mountains (you get the picture) but Prince William Sound? Who knew it could be even more beautiful! I am so fortunate to live in this lush, green, make-me-happy place.. and Alaska is even better.
We stayed in a forest service cabin on Paulson Bay. It was a 45 minute water taxi trip from Whittier to the cabin, provided by an attractive local who gave us beer at 11 am :) Getting to
Whittier is an interesting experience: picture 2 miles under a mountain with a single lane road. Getting in or out is all based on a well honed system of departures (the train also uses the road as it was originally on accessible by train until recently). Here are a few pictures of my travels, see my blog for more if you're interested.
We stayed in a forest service cabin on Paulson Bay. It was a 45 minute water taxi trip from Whittier to the cabin, provided by an attractive local who gave us beer at 11 am :) Getting to
Whittier is an interesting experience: picture 2 miles under a mountain with a single lane road. Getting in or out is all based on a well honed system of departures (the train also uses the road as it was originally on accessible by train until recently). Here are a few pictures of my travels, see my blog for more if you're interested.I spent almost 2 weeks hanging out with my friends, eating at all my favorite places and riding a borrowed bike on the Kincaid Trails for pleasure and in preparation for the Livestrong ride the weekend I got back. A total highlight was spending time with Teagan and Anna. They are absolutely precious! Teagan is 12 months and Anna is 3. We made rhubarb cobbler and played with her dolls... yes, I did.
While this summer is very different than the past two (France, Germany, Italy, Scotland, England.. ahhhh...) it has been equally fun so far. Adventures come in all different shapes and sizes~ yeah! Can't wait to hear Amy's stories when she gets home. Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Thank GODDESS!
I would write about the drive from Strasbourg to Blienschwiller -- but I'm not ready to think about it yet. Let's just say I got there and that the car was in one piece. Thankfully, the trip to Germolles went better. I am so happy to be here. Christian and Matthieu are wonderful, the place is more amazing than I remembered and all I can say about the room I'm staying in is that I think I gasped. The chateau is beautiful, and there is so much more to say but it's finally cooled off and I'm headed to the garden.
:) Amy
:) Amy
Sunday, June 29, 2008
I'm in Spain?
That's what you might have thought last night as locals celebrated Spain's EuroCup (soccer) win over Germany. Despite the fact that Strasbourg has a big German community, apparently the locals are thrilled that Spain won -- they honked horns, shouted and sang for about 2 hours last night -- though I think I drifted off about 12:30 am.
After the luxury of my hotel in Reims, my hotel here is like a dorm room -- and the staff seem completely confused by me in every way -- even though I know I'm using the proper phrases. Hmmmm... They seem to assume I am German (or from Mars). The guy sitting next to me thinks I am a CIA agent -- even though I told him I'm not. And when I speak French he mumbles oddly.
My bigger concern today is driving. I pick up the car in a few hours and I'm a bit nervous -- or a lot. Please send up a prayer for me and the rest of France that everything goes okay.
Strasbourg has been a little strange this time around -- but I'm celebrating small victories like figuring out how to open the window, turn on the shower, and find the apostrophe key on this keyboard. '''''''' ;)
After the luxury of my hotel in Reims, my hotel here is like a dorm room -- and the staff seem completely confused by me in every way -- even though I know I'm using the proper phrases. Hmmmm... They seem to assume I am German (or from Mars). The guy sitting next to me thinks I am a CIA agent -- even though I told him I'm not. And when I speak French he mumbles oddly.
My bigger concern today is driving. I pick up the car in a few hours and I'm a bit nervous -- or a lot. Please send up a prayer for me and the rest of France that everything goes okay.
Strasbourg has been a little strange this time around -- but I'm celebrating small victories like figuring out how to open the window, turn on the shower, and find the apostrophe key on this keyboard. '''''''' ;)
Saturday, June 28, 2008
pas dormir
I didnt have jet lag all the time I was in Paris, but my sense of when to sleep is all screwy now. I woke up at 4 am yesterday because I thought it was light out - it wasnt -- there was a lamp post. This morning it was 2 am -- so I finished a book (I know -- I actually read something!) I had dinner at Chez Yvonne last night -- Deb, I ordered the Feuillette of Muenster w/ kirsh sauerkraut that we loved last year -- it was so good. So far, I have succeeded in confusing the French by eating things all wrong -- like ordering just mashed potatoes for dinner or an appetizer as a meal. I get some strange looks. Ah, well ...
Still on this French keyboard -- which wont switch to English no matter how many times I set it, very frustrating -- so excuse the lack of apostrophes and the short post. Im going to the cathedral for some organ music. Still having fun, though a little tired today. ;)
Still on this French keyboard -- which wont switch to English no matter how many times I set it, very frustrating -- so excuse the lack of apostrophes and the short post. Im going to the cathedral for some organ music. Still having fun, though a little tired today. ;)
a quick note...
Im now in Strasbourg after having sipped champagne in Reims. All is well -- there is lots more to say, but the keyboard is French and so it is hunt and peck -- and Id rather be enjoying the town than next to sweaty, smelly guy in the basement of this cyber café!
a bientot!
a bientot!
Thursday, June 26, 2008
C'est Bon!
Despite my best efforts and careful packing of only sensible shoes, I've still managed to get blisters -- I even have one on my toe! That said, it's the worst thing that's happened so far. Oh, and both my watch and travel alarm clock went kaput -- even with new batteries. Luckily, I don't have any early morning trains and can probably manage a while longer without either. Besides, my morning wake-up call is a sound I can only describe as bowling with garbage trucks on the Avenue Bourdonnais. It's kind of funny actually. It reminds me of Arles... Tristan, Deb and Stacey will know what I mean.
I'm sure you're really enjoying this scintillating post -- ha ha. There is a lot more to report. I love the location of my hotel -- it's just blocks away from Rue Cler (home of my favorite cheese shop in Paris) and close to the metro. Last night I went to Cafe Camille and ordered just the mashed potatoes for dinner. I thought of you, Deb and asked what they put in them (I was guessing Ementhaller). Nope, just cream and butter -- the French certainly know dairy. Mmmm... After that, I sat at a table outside a little place around the corner from my hotel and enjoyed a Pastis. Double mmmmm.
The weather here is perfect -- about 75 today and the same yesterday. Paris is a different city when it's warm, and it brings out a whole different set of fashion. Speaking of which, I saw a some Vivienne Westwoods today -- and a few other fancy things at the Galleries Lafayette. I went there looking for a watch -- came out with a dress for only 14.90 euro. Hrm... other than that, I really haven't bought anything except metro tickets and food. It is sooooo good.
I spent the morning in Montmartre -- loved it, very charming and I'm glad I passed on going out to the Petite Trianon. Sacre Coeur is massive and beautiful. I sat for part of the service. One of the sisters was singing -- she had a gorgeous voice. Then, I went to the Cemetary to visit Nijinsky and Degas' graves. I was taking a picture of a cat behind a tombstone when this little old man started talking to me. Turns out he spoke enough English and I enough French that we had a whole conversation. He feeds the cemetary cats -- about 90 of them. He asked did I want to give him something to help pay for the food -- well, not really, but he showed me his secret hiding place -- inside one of the crypts -- where he keeps the food when the guards aren't looking. I asked him if it was his family's crypt and he said no. What a surprise that would be if one of the actual owners opened the door to pay their respects and found offerings of cat food! I figured that was worth a few euros -- it makes a good story, and who knows -- maybe he'll be a character in my next play.
Later, I went to the Champs Elysses -- it was big, but paled in comparison to Montmartre. The Arc de Triumph is also big. Hmmm... that's probably not the best way to describe one of France's most important monuments, but really the cat man was more interesting.
I'm not sad about skipping most of the big things -- the museums, the monuments, etc... I feel I saw most of those the last time. Instead I'm having a great time finding all kinds of small treasures in Paris. It's been a lovely visit.
I depart tomorrow afternoon for Reims, then on to Strasbourg. More later.
Love,
Amy
I'm sure you're really enjoying this scintillating post -- ha ha. There is a lot more to report. I love the location of my hotel -- it's just blocks away from Rue Cler (home of my favorite cheese shop in Paris) and close to the metro. Last night I went to Cafe Camille and ordered just the mashed potatoes for dinner. I thought of you, Deb and asked what they put in them (I was guessing Ementhaller). Nope, just cream and butter -- the French certainly know dairy. Mmmm... After that, I sat at a table outside a little place around the corner from my hotel and enjoyed a Pastis. Double mmmmm.
The weather here is perfect -- about 75 today and the same yesterday. Paris is a different city when it's warm, and it brings out a whole different set of fashion. Speaking of which, I saw a some Vivienne Westwoods today -- and a few other fancy things at the Galleries Lafayette. I went there looking for a watch -- came out with a dress for only 14.90 euro. Hrm... other than that, I really haven't bought anything except metro tickets and food. It is sooooo good.
I spent the morning in Montmartre -- loved it, very charming and I'm glad I passed on going out to the Petite Trianon. Sacre Coeur is massive and beautiful. I sat for part of the service. One of the sisters was singing -- she had a gorgeous voice. Then, I went to the Cemetary to visit Nijinsky and Degas' graves. I was taking a picture of a cat behind a tombstone when this little old man started talking to me. Turns out he spoke enough English and I enough French that we had a whole conversation. He feeds the cemetary cats -- about 90 of them. He asked did I want to give him something to help pay for the food -- well, not really, but he showed me his secret hiding place -- inside one of the crypts -- where he keeps the food when the guards aren't looking. I asked him if it was his family's crypt and he said no. What a surprise that would be if one of the actual owners opened the door to pay their respects and found offerings of cat food! I figured that was worth a few euros -- it makes a good story, and who knows -- maybe he'll be a character in my next play.
Later, I went to the Champs Elysses -- it was big, but paled in comparison to Montmartre. The Arc de Triumph is also big. Hmmm... that's probably not the best way to describe one of France's most important monuments, but really the cat man was more interesting.
I'm not sad about skipping most of the big things -- the museums, the monuments, etc... I feel I saw most of those the last time. Instead I'm having a great time finding all kinds of small treasures in Paris. It's been a lovely visit.
I depart tomorrow afternoon for Reims, then on to Strasbourg. More later.
Love,
Amy
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Je suis ici!
I am here and everything is going well. My flight from Portland to Houston was very smooth and Houston had a nice surprise -- no connection in Newark as I expected -- just straight through to Paris. I had nice seat companions on the long flight -- Eleanor (a teacher in East LA) and her husband. Eleanor had some great info on Paris to share so I'm going to check out some of the spots she showed me.
I took the RER from the airport -- much faster and cheaper than the Roissy Bus -- and a station agent kindly helped me when I forgot to validate my ticket (though he did scold me a little bit). I found my way to the hotel (only two changes on the metro). My hotel is in a great location! It's just down the street from the Ecole Militaire. I'm on the top floor in perhaps the tiniest room you can imagine but I can see the Eiffel Tower from my window! A room with a view! Imagine that! The shower curtain is rather amorous and I can pretty much do all necessary actiities in the bathroom from one spot, but I really don't care. I'm having a wonderful time so far.
Okay, I'm suddenly very hungry... time to find a patisserie!
A bientot!
Amy
I took the RER from the airport -- much faster and cheaper than the Roissy Bus -- and a station agent kindly helped me when I forgot to validate my ticket (though he did scold me a little bit). I found my way to the hotel (only two changes on the metro). My hotel is in a great location! It's just down the street from the Ecole Militaire. I'm on the top floor in perhaps the tiniest room you can imagine but I can see the Eiffel Tower from my window! A room with a view! Imagine that! The shower curtain is rather amorous and I can pretty much do all necessary actiities in the bathroom from one spot, but I really don't care. I'm having a wonderful time so far.
Okay, I'm suddenly very hungry... time to find a patisserie!
A bientot!
Amy
Monday, June 23, 2008
Let's wave as we pass each other...
I leave tomorrow!
It's very exciting!
I'm still a little nervous about the driving, but I made it through two driving lessons and my first solo drive without crying. (Woot!). I have, however, told Christian to alert the rest of France that I'm going to be on the road, so watch out! I also heard back from Niels, our fantastic host at L'Orangerie, whom I'll get to visit with when I'm at Germolles. It will be really fun to see him and David again -- they are the definition of lovely people. Niels serves a breakfast that makes a non-breakfast person like me think that maybe breakfast IS the most important meal of the day.
My thanks to Rhonda and Kim for helping me learn to drive -- especially Rhonda, who handled the first part of "Amy grinds gears and burns rubber" like the most fantastic person you ever met. Heart you, lady!
Deb is coming back from Kansas which she reports is "very flat with no trees". Stacey returns home from Alaska tomorrow where she's been having a whole bunch of fun. I'll be taking off so we've decided to wave to each other out the plane window.
Look up tomorrow -- I'll be waving.
It's very exciting!
I'm still a little nervous about the driving, but I made it through two driving lessons and my first solo drive without crying. (Woot!). I have, however, told Christian to alert the rest of France that I'm going to be on the road, so watch out! I also heard back from Niels, our fantastic host at L'Orangerie, whom I'll get to visit with when I'm at Germolles. It will be really fun to see him and David again -- they are the definition of lovely people. Niels serves a breakfast that makes a non-breakfast person like me think that maybe breakfast IS the most important meal of the day.
My thanks to Rhonda and Kim for helping me learn to drive -- especially Rhonda, who handled the first part of "Amy grinds gears and burns rubber" like the most fantastic person you ever met. Heart you, lady!
Deb is coming back from Kansas which she reports is "very flat with no trees". Stacey returns home from Alaska tomorrow where she's been having a whole bunch of fun. I'll be taking off so we've decided to wave to each other out the plane window.
Look up tomorrow -- I'll be waving.
Monday, June 16, 2008
8 Days
It's hard to believe in just 8 days I will be in France. It's harder to believe that a year ago, I was only thinking about my first trip to France -- with no idea that I would be returning so soon, let alone to stay at a castle in Burgundy. I am so excited, I can hardly stand it. I keep thinking this is all a dream -- and amazed that it is not.
The chateau website is working again. Click on the "galleries" link at the right side of the main page to see more photos of where I will be for two weeks. Of course, more pictures will follow.
Stacey is in Alaska -- she goes sea kayaking later this week. I'm sure she'll have adventures to tell about when she returns. Deb is hosting out of town guests soon and vacationing in Portland -- which isn't a bad place to be at all! Tristan is road-tripping this summer to mine for opals and turquoise -- and to visit the west.
The Travel Gals are all well, adventure begins! Happy travels!
The chateau website is working again. Click on the "galleries" link at the right side of the main page to see more photos of where I will be for two weeks. Of course, more pictures will follow.
Stacey is in Alaska -- she goes sea kayaking later this week. I'm sure she'll have adventures to tell about when she returns. Deb is hosting out of town guests soon and vacationing in Portland -- which isn't a bad place to be at all! Tristan is road-tripping this summer to mine for opals and turquoise -- and to visit the west.
The Travel Gals are all well, adventure begins! Happy travels!
Sunday, May 25, 2008
Renegade Glamour
The countdown has officially started. One month from today I'll be in Paris. If you could blog a vocalization, there would be a little something after that sentence. I started packing the other day -- not the real packing -- just putting a few things aside and making some lists. #1 on the list -- leaving Clifford the Big Red Suitcase at home this year! The sassy red suitcase I bought last year was a pain in the as...terisk. Today I discovered just one more reason why -- it weighs 15 pounds COMPLETELY EMPTY! I am determined to pack light this year which is another reason I've started packing so soon -- it will take me that long to figure it out. I know people who can live on 3 or 4 changes of clothes -- I am not one of those people. I'm already up to 5 pair of shoes: 2 pair for walking, one pair of gardening shoes, one pair flip flops and one decent pair in case I have the opportunity to go somewhere nice. What I would love is for someone to invent shoes and clothes that were like those sponge thingies that are really flat and small until you add water and then they become regular size -- but could go back to small and flat agin when you needed them to. Whoever figures that out could be a gazillionaire and my BFF.
Last night while hanging out with friends, Aimster says, "You have renegade glamour". Renegade glamour? Yep. That's what you get when you decide on a sort of whim that you're going to take someone up on their chance meeting offer to garden at their chateau in France all by yourself. I guess when you've got renegade glamour, it doesn't matter how many pair of shoes you pack. ;)
Last night while hanging out with friends, Aimster says, "You have renegade glamour". Renegade glamour? Yep. That's what you get when you decide on a sort of whim that you're going to take someone up on their chance meeting offer to garden at their chateau in France all by yourself. I guess when you've got renegade glamour, it doesn't matter how many pair of shoes you pack. ;)
Monday, April 7, 2008
One Travel Gal Goes Back To France
So, for those of you who were following along last year, I mentioned the possibility of going back to France to garden at the chateau in Burgundy. Well, it's happening! I'm headed back to the land of wine, cheese, and castles!
This isn't "new" news to most of you -- but if you think I've been holding out on the rest of you, ask Tristan why she hasn't posted about her trip to Egypt and Jordan.
That's right, she went to Egypt -- for real. I'll see if I can get some photos and memories out of her to post.
Many more details to come, so be sure to check back later.
A bientot!
Amy
This isn't "new" news to most of you -- but if you think I've been holding out on the rest of you, ask Tristan why she hasn't posted about her trip to Egypt and Jordan.
That's right, she went to Egypt -- for real. I'll see if I can get some photos and memories out of her to post.
Many more details to come, so be sure to check back later.
A bientot!
Amy
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