The Land of Oz

It's my last full day at Germolles. As usual, I'm a bit tired, my muscles are sore from gardening, and I'm thinking of my time here. It was different this year, for many reasons, but still a great visit. Matthieu is an intellectual with a surprising kind of child-like humor that I find so endearing. He is a man with his old teddybears still next to his bed, and shoes in the fireplace. He finds beauty and pleasure in many things, as we all should. He is my cowardly lion -- not so much the coward as the big creature with a soft heart. Christian makes me laugh like no one else I know. He is quick-witted and sharp, and dramatic in all the right ways. I am sure we knew each other in a former life, and he is a kindred spirit to me. He is my scarecrow, and it's him I find it hardest to say goodbye too. And then there is the little (well not really) black dog, Balzan, who did not want to leave my side this morning. I think he really does know that I am leaving. He is not as naughty as last year, and still very lovable.

This year we also had Mamùt -- Christian's mother -- what a character she is! Last night she instructed me to eat my spinach because it would "give me a good ca ca (sh*t)". I laughed so hard tears streamed down my face and I couldn't eat. Oh, the meals we have had here! As the French say, "oh la la".

Matthieu and I connected over shadow puppets and last night he showed me his incredible collection -- at least 50 of them. He is just as delighted by my puppet shows with puppets made from cereal boxes and whatever I can find to McGyver a puppet together. He has asked me to put on a great show for the public here at the chateau the next time I come visit.

It's a quiet and picture perfect day at the chateau. I leave tomorrow morning for one more night in Paris, then home. As always, it has been a grand adventure!

The French Revelation

Though I didn't expect the garden would be in the same condition as when I left it last year, I did expect that the perennials I planted would return in some state. It was a surprise and disappointment to find only two -- yes, two! I could not understand why. Then, a few days later the mystery was solved when I was talking to Christian about it.

Did you follow the instructions I sent? I asked.

- No.

I see.

- Perhaps we should follow them this time?

Yes, because you asked for them. And you should listen to me since I do know something about gardening.

- Yes, in fact, I think that you do.

Did you at least water them?

- That was Matthieu's job and he didn't do it.

Ahhh....

So, a bit later I am speaking to Matthieu:

Matthieu, the reason the flowers did not return is because you didn't water them.

- Ahhhh -- you must water them?

Yes, I said so in my instructions.

- Even when it is raining, you must water them?

No, not then, but when it does not rain, you must.

- I see. Okay, we will do that.

I think that would be a good idea.

THE FRENCH REVELATION -- if you water them, they will grow!

Sometimes, it's not much different than teaching junior high (lol).

So -- off to Jardinland we went for more plants -- this time buying some that were even more indestructible (let's hope). And after some archaeological weeding, I found some of the plants which had made a valiant effort to survive long enough to be rescued by me. A tiny balloon flower popped up as if to say, "I'm here! I'm here! Amy, I'm not lost -- just very thirsty! And by the way, please give those naughty Frenchmen a stern talking to!"

In the meantime, it is hot and humid here -- which puts a bit of a kink in productivity as you are a melting, sweaty pile of goo within 20 minutes or less. I made a shadow puppet show to entertain us in the hot evening and distract us from the mosquitos (which have bitten me so badly that I think I'm down at least a quart). If I can, I'll film it and post it later. As it turns out, Matthieu has a collection of about 50 Indonesian shadow puppets which he has promised to show me. Very cool -- especially after taking that course on shadow theater a few weeks ago.

All for now -- blogging is a bit hard on a French keyboard. Hope you are all well.

Amy

It's good to be here.

I arrived last night at the Chalon station where a smiling Christian was waiting for me. It is so good to see him and Mattieu again -- and to be at Germolles; a place I love dearly. It is very hot but the evenings are nice and we had a nice meal prepared by Matthieu's friend; who was visiting. Christian's mother is also here and she insists I call her Rachell, not Madame. *

This french keyboard is difficult so that is all for now:

Life is good!

Time Warp

Being in a place where multiple centuries collide at every corner can put you in a bit of a time warp. I realized I'd completely missed the fourth of July (though I posted that day). We are a day ahead here, but most times I'm not really sure what day it is.

Pretty much everyone and everything is friendly at Germolles, from the fish in the moat, to the chickens and quail in the farm yard, to the butterfly that fanned my back the other day or the bat that came in to see my bedroom last night. It was a very polite bat, kindly asked to be let out, and then fluttered around while I opened the enoromous windows.

There is always something to do here, another reason to lose track of days. Hard to believe it has been a week already. Dinners are late here -- very late -- and it was nearly 1 am by the time I climbed the spiral staircase to my room. Christian is quite a ham -- and his "chou croute lady" is a continual source of amusement. It is easy to see why he and Matthieu love Germolles. It's the kind of place where you could be very happy -- maybe forever.

(not to worry though... I'm still coming home).

La vie du Chateau Germolles

It is really quite incredible to be here. I find myself in the garden glancing up at this 14th century place and I can't believe this is where I am. There is so much to tell about. I'm getting the hang of the french keyboard -- but am still a bit slow at typing -- frustrating when there is so much to write about.

I arrived on a hot Burgundy afternoon -- the kind that had me wondering why I bothered to pack long pants, banana sweats (yes, I brought them) and my waterproof jacket. I was glad I did as we had a storm the other day where the sky turns black and the wind whips around in a way that makes all the birds and bugs nervous. It reminded me of the storm in "Under the Tuscan Sun" where Frances finds an owl in her bedroom. Apparently, that had happened before in my room, so I half expected one. Mother Nature put on quite a show with great cracks of lightning and a torrent of rain that lasted most of the next day. With the rain pouring in buckets, gardening was a bit of a challenge -- though this Oregon girl made a valiant effort. Finally I resigned myself to some cooking -- I made some jam with rhubarb from the garden and a gallete of peaches, raspberries (or RAPSberries, as Christian calls them) and apricots.

The kitchen -- which is a mix of every century from the 12th to the 20th -- is one of my favorite places. The pantry next door smells of wonderful stinky cheese -- sometimes I go in there just to smell it. While the rain isn't ideal, being inside wasn't awful.

This morning Matthieu had a tour in English, so I went along. The history of the chateau is fascinating -- and there is something to discover around every corner. My bedroom is on the first floor (actually the second according to American architecture). This was the floor where the nobility largely slept/lived so I've got one of the best rooms in the house! Though the bedroom where I sleep was redecorated/changed to a more Parisian style, underneath there are the original paintings of Marguerite and Phillipe's initials. It is believed that the Duke Phillipe the Bold gave Marguerite of Flanders Germolles as a gift -- and her influence is everywhere. I'll write more of that later.

Today was beautiful weather for gardening and I spent most of the day in the carre du fleurs -- the wild garden behind the Orangerie (greenhouse). I am taking some before and after pictures -- hopefully the "after" will meet with Marguerite's approval. :)

All for now -- all is well.